Lunch today with a man who is hard to categorise. He had eggs.
The Tummy still being not too keen on solid foods, I decided on the oft-scorned
“Soy Chai Latte”.
“Soy” “Chai” “Latte”. Three words that even in themselves inspire
contempt - the environmentally problematic processes involved in soy milk
production, the shameless mimicking of
But glorious liquid derision at that. Sweet and creamy, yet slightly
nutty, soy milk, tinged with a hint of ginger and cardamom, and topped with a
little frothy hat to be spooned off and savoured dollop by dollop. I think
breast milk must have tasted something like a Soy Chai Latte.
Not only that, there is something warm and fuzzy about the culinary
concepts of soybeans (largely used in Japanese cooking), Chai (Hindi for ‘tea’)
and the Italian “café latte” uniting in my mug this way. Its not offensive,
it’s a tribute to multiculturalism, an emblem of tolerance to be held forth as
a guiding light for Australian society.
Yes, I know it is made with syrup that is more likely constructed by
a factory worker in Packenham than spices ground by Rajasthani farmgirls. Yes,
I know that chai-wallahs don’t carry around milk frothers. And yes, I know its
not “real chai”, as themfolks who frequent the Chai Tent at Confest and St
Andrews Market will testify.
I know this because I’ve drunk “real chai” and it is nothing like my
Soy Chai Latte. The equal quantities sugar and week-old tealeaves, the ass-end
of a knob of ginger ground between rocks and thrown in a pot with milk that has
been in the sun all day and a sprinkle of dirt to give the colour that the
tealeaves won’t. “Real chai”, drunk from clay pots that you smash on the ground
once you have finished, serves a time and place. That place is India and the time is after a five hour bus-ride with
a family of twenty and their chickens, to give energy after a bout of dysentery
or to calm nerves after another run-in with a Saddhu who wants to feel your
aura (and is pretty sure it is located right under that there bra).
In Varanasi, they don’t use soymilk, they don’t use honey,
and they sure don’t recycle the cups. That is “real chai”.
I’m not saying that “real chai”, a “Soy Chai Latte”, or
“Cushions-and-dreadlocks chai” can’t be delicious. I’m simply saying that
sometimes it can be futile to apply labels and make judgments, and it can be
nice just to enjoy the unique beverage in front of you for what it is.